FEED: Your shetland sheep is a primative, unimproved breed, and should be able to thrive on pasture in the summer, and hay in the winter. If you choose to supplement with grain, don't over-do it. Feeding too much grain can make your sheep sick. Remember that these are not meat sheep. The goal is not to get weight on your lamb as quickly as possible for the fastest gain. I was taught that one should be able to feel the shetland sheep's backbone when feeling the spine. This is normal. A "tabletop" backed shetland is a over conditioned sheep.
Introducing sheep to lush pasture should be done gradually so they don't bloat. Any feed changes should be introduced gradually over a 10 day period of time.
We offer Arm & Hammer baking soda free-choice while the sheep are on pasture. Baking soda can help keep the rumen Ph at the right level and may prevent bloat.
WATER: Fresh, clean water should be available for your sheep at all times.
SHELTER: Your sheep will appreciate protection from wind and rain, and someplace dry to lay down. Shade in the summer is an absolute must! Sheep can overheat very easily. Special care should be taken to keep your sheep from becoming stressed, expecially in hot weather.
MINERAL: Providing free choice mineral (salt block) is recommended, either as loose salt, or as a block. Make sure the mineral is made for sheep! This is very important. Mineral should be free of copper and animal protein by-products. While sheep do need trace amounts of copper, they usually obtain it through forage. Too much is toxic. If you are in a selinium deficient area, discuss adding selinium to your sheep's diet with your vet.
VACCINATIONS: An annual vaccination against clostridium and tetanus is recommended by many breeders. You will want to discuss this with your vet. I vaccinate all our sheep in March, about a month before lambing. This passes some resistance onto the lamb before birth. Lambs are vaccinated again at 6 weeks of age, then boostered at 10 weeks. Mature animals only need the vaccine annually.
FENCING: Ideally, fencing should keep the sheep in and predators out. We use woven wire and cattle panels or hog panels.
DE-WORMING: Discuss a de-worming schedule with your vet, as needs differ by location and individual flocks. Your vet can determine your sheep's worm load by examining a fecal sample. *Do not use Valbazan on pregnant ewes, it can cause abortion or birth defects!*
RAMS: Always keep in mind that rams can be very unpredictable in behavior, and one should never turn their back on one in the pasture. Any ram, even the most gentle, can change their attitude quite suddenly. There is always a first time for a ram to charge you and knock you over. Even a polled ram can hurt you. Use special caution when carrying hay or grain as this can get them very excited. I usually carry a shepherd's crook with me when entering the ram's pasture. Always use caution around any male breeding animal.
Rams should never be kept in solitary confinement. Sheep are herd animals and need companionship of their own kind. If you don't want to keep more than one ram for breeding, get him a wether or two (casterated ram) as a companion.
LAMBING: Lambing is an entirely whole topic altogether that cannot be addressed here. The breeder should familiarize oneself with sheep conformation, breeding soundness, pregnant ewe care, lambing trouble shooting, and lamb care. A vet should be a phone call away in case of trouble!
RECOMMENDED READING:
I have read the following books and have found them invaluable:
"Lamb Problems" and "Managing Your Ewe" by Laura Lawson
"The Veterinary Book for Sheep Farmers" by David C. Henderson
"Storey's Guide to Raising Sheep" by Paula Simmons
"The Sheep Book" by Ron Parker